Skaftafell
Mountain Hike

An Alternative Route

Words and images by Rowan B, guide at Glacier and Volcano Expeditions

Embarking upon an adventure to form your own route in the mountains completely alone in the wilderness is always a special experience that we are often privileged with here in Southern Iceland. Yesterday was a classic example of total solitude as Guðný and I explored a new zone that we had yet to discover. Gudny and I guided our guest Stephanie on a fantastic day in the mountains and as per usual we decided to take an exhilarating alternative route.

A fresh morning breeze greeted us in the glacier valley as we headed toward the ice. With blue skies overhead and sunshine beaming down on our faces we knew we were going to have a great day in the mountains! The largest volcano in Iceland welcomed us on our approach toward the glacier that pours down from the ice cap far above. Towering blue seracs glistened in the morning sun high up in the icefall of Falljökull glacier, a sight that doesn't get old no matter how many times we visit this majestic part of Iceland. 

On arrival at the glacier lake we noticed that the winter water ice was still very thick, so we took advantage of this and made a shortcut across the lake to the other side to begin our journey up the valley. The glacier had been washed clean due to recent rainfall and was a pleasure to walk on with our crampons strapped firmly onto our boots. The recent heavy rainfall in Southern Iceland had also left meltwater pools scattered around the glacier which were a very deep shade of blue that was almost electric looking! 

We set a steady pace as we negotiated the viciously crevassed lower part of the glacier and we were lucky to make fast progress up the Virkisjökull valley.

The upper part of the glacier cascades off of a large cliff higher up the valley on the southern side and on the opposite side it flows down as one continuous stream. At regular intervals there are enormous ice collapses off of the hanging southern part of the glacier which send a booming rumble down through the valley when the ice explodes as it hits the glacier below. Standing in this amphitheatre-like valley really does make a person feel small as one is almost completely surrounded by either towering cliffs or cascading glaciers in every direction.

Crevasse waves flank the edge of the glacier where we intended to descend off the ice and onto the rocky mountainside. These wicked crevasses made for tricky route finding in order to get close enough to the side of the ice to set up a rappel but after some zig zigging around we made it close enough.

Gudny and I were both carrying a 30m rope in our backpacks each and we needed to rappel about 50m to reach the ground, so we made the decision to rappel off the side of glacier in two stages. I built a v-thread backed up with an ice screw and lowered Gudny and Stephanie down 25m onto a ledge, whilst I then rappelled with both of the ropes directly through the single v thread. Once we were all at the ledge we then repeated the process to make it safely off the glacier just in time for lunch! Lunch time is definitely my most favourite part of any day in the mountains. In the morning before setting off we take the time to make coffee and a nice tasty lunch to look forward to. It makes all the difference in the wilderness knowing that you are going to treat yourself at around noon and it gives you an energy boost for the afternoon. Hot coffee and cheese sandwiches with a view of volcanic ice - love it! 

After a refreshing break and bite to eat, Gudny, Stephanie and I began climbing up the side of the rocky glacier valley into a “secret” side valley which is hidden from view in most directions. The snowy paradise invited us to explore further as we made our way into the new territory. Meltwater streams flow down from Iceland’s highest peak, through the valley and out underneath the glacier that we were walking on just before lunch. As we hiked along we weaved amongst gigantic lava boulders decorated with glowing green moss that were scattered throughout the valley floor, protruding through the deep snowpack that blanketed almost everything.

This particular section of our hike was new to us as Gudny and I had not ventured into this valley before. We were linking two of our favourite Glacier and Volcano Expeditions adventure guiding routes that we commonly guide into one combined route. Hiking up into this hidden valley that rarely sees any visitors was a definitely a highlight of the day as we were surprised at how peaceful and welcoming this beautiful valley was. Another thing that we noticed was the fantastic snow coverage and we promised that we will definitely take our touring skis back up there again ASAP and cut some ski laps in there! We drank pure mountain water from the streams and enjoyed the warm sunshine on our faces as we took one last break before steadily making our way up the final stretch of climbing to gain the mountain pass. 

The snow on the climb was just the way we like it for alpine hiking. Soft, but not too soft. It would have actually been really nice spring skiing conditions but we were on a different style of mission. As we were ascending the slope to gain the ridge there were some small rocks rolling down the mountain very fast so we had to be sure to keep en eye out for rocks that were aiming for us. We were wearing helmets but you can never be too careful with falling rocks in the Icelandic mountains. Sea birds called out to us as they circled above our heads as we cramponed up the snow slope steadily toward the top. They must have thought that we were crazy to be walking up that mountain whilst they glided along in the breeze. 

Finally we made it to the ridge, and what a sight! A mind blowing panoramic view in every direction - we could see Iceland’s highest volcano (Öræfajökull) and peak (Hvannadalshnúkur) and five major outlet glaciers from the Vatnajökull ice cap.

We could also see the ocean, icebergs in the glacier lakes and the largest glacial outwash plain in the world (Skeiðarársandur). After a few photos and a high-five we decided to leave the stiff breeze on the ridge and begin our descent toward civilisation 1000m below. 

Our descent was pleasant as we strolled down the gentle slopes toward the late afternoon sun that was soon to set over the ocean in the distance. Sunlight reflected off the many river braids that meander toward the coast flowing directly out of the “water glacier” that is Vatnajökull. Lit up like flowing streams of gold, it was impossible to look out and not feel overwhelmed with this expansive beautiful vista. A stunning end to an amazing day.

Returning to somewhere that you have been before is lovely because the nostalgia of the previous experience returns and it is always interesting to compare the conditions. However nothing can compare to the feeling of exploring an area for the first time. Surprises are the spice of life which is why we are addicted to leading our adventures and hiking on alternative routes.

If you are interested in taking an alternative route with Glacier and Volcano Expeditions, please contact us or make a reservation for a Iceland Private Glacier Tour.